When you need to attach a new ball of two-stranded yarn, stagger the joins. About 4 or 5 stitches before you need to actually join the new yarn, let one strand of your working yarn fall and pick up one strand of the new yarn. Work the 4 or 5 stitches thus (with one strand old, one strand new). Then drop the second old strand and pick up the second new strand. Knit a few stitches, then tug on the ends to tighten. This ensures that the joining of the yarn does not create a single point where a hole in your fabric can form.
You can join your current knitting to previous knitting by working a stitch from the current piece together with a stitch from the edge of the previous piece. This requires that the previous piece either has stitches that were left on holders, or you have picked up stitches along the edge and placed them on a needle. Joining at a right side edge.
- At the end of every wrong side row, purl 2 together (the final stitch from the current piece and the next stitch from the previous piece).
- On the beginning of every other right side row, slip the stitch from the right hand needle back to the left hand needle and knit 2 together (the next stitch from the previous piece and the first stitch from the current piece).
Joining at the left edge.
- At the beginning of every wrong side row, slip the stitch from the right hand needle to the left hand needle and purl 2 together (the next stitch from the previous piece and the next stitch from the current piece).
- On the end of every other right side row, knit 2 together (the last stitch from the chart and the next stitch from square 2).
For Scandinavian styles garments, you are often left with figuring out where to start your row, as the number of stitches in the chart do not match the number of stitches in your row.
Also, these patterns are often centered on a single stitch. This is usually marked on the pattern as the center stitch.
Using the Double crochet bind off gives a nice elastic edge to your knitting.
Use a crochet hook that is equivalent in size to your knitting needles. Insert hook knit-wise into first stitch. Wrap the yarn around the hook as if to knit. Pull the yarn through the stitch, moving it off the needle (basically just knit the stitch, using the crochet hook as your working needle). *Repeat for the next stitch. You now have two loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn around the hook and pull the yarn through both loops. You now have one loop on the hook. Repeat from *.
This cast on provides a set of stitches that can be picked up later and used to knit in the opposite direction.
This method starts with a contrasting color yarn that will be removed later to expose the stitches.
Using a contrast color waste yarn make a slip knot on your crochet hook to start. With the knitting needle held upright on the left and the crochet hook on the right, bring the yarn from the crochet hook on the right, behind the needle and towards the left and forward towards yourself. Moving the crochet hook in front of the needle, catch the yarn which is now to the left of the needle and pull this yarn through the loop on the crochet hook. This makes one stitch. Repeat this until you have the desired number of stitches on your needle. Pull a large loop through the loop on the crochet hook to prevent the crochet work from unraveling (and/or create a chain).
When you are ready to use the stitches being held by the crochet work, pull the loops of the waste yarn out and the working stitches will be freed and ready to be put on the needle for working. Be careful to place each stitch on your knitting needle as the waste yarn is pulled out of it. You will have one less stitch than what you cast on with.
This bind off creates a decorative edge. It requires at least one knit stitch prior to starting. Basically we are knitting into the front, then back, then front again of the stitch on the left hand needle, but binding off as we go.
Directions K1 but don’t remove original stitch from left hand needle. The new stitch has passed to right hand needle as normal. Pass the previous stitch over this new stitch. Knit into the back of the stitch on the left hand needle, keep the original stitch on left hand needle and pass the new stitch to right hand needle as usual. Pass the previous stitch over last stitch worked Knit into the front of the stitch on left hand needle (as normal) Pass the previous stitch over last stitch worked.
For toe up socks, we need a cast on that will produce a circle of knitting already joined together at the toe.
One method is to cast on half the number of required stitches onto one circular needle. Then knit across these stitches increasing in each one by knitting into the front and back of each stitch. You then rearrange your stitches in preparation for knitting in the round.
- For knitting on two circulars.Slip the first stitch to the circular needle 1, then slip the second stitch to needle number 2, held behind the first. Continue slipping all stitches, alternating which needle is slipped to.
- For knitting on four double pointed needles.Slip the first stitch onto needle one, then slip the second stitch onto needle three held behind the first. Continue slipping stitches until half way across, then substitute needle two for needle one. You will end up with half the front stitches on needle 1, half of the front stitches on needle 2 and all of the back stitches on needle 3.
Knit one round.
While this works, it leaves a row of cast on bumps at the toe which many people don’t like
Judy Becker invented a wonderful cast on that does this very thing even better: Judy’s Magic Cast On. Refer to the Knitty article at for her instructions. This cast on is also described in many of the newer Toe Up sock books and is the perfect solution!
To obtain a nice stretchy bind off for K1, P1 circular ribbed items such as the tops of sock cuffs, we use a modified Kitchener bind off.
The modification is to omit some of the preparatory rows that you see in many instructions (these rows slip half the stitches for a couple of rounds and create a tubular finish). We don’t need the in-elasticity of the floats behind the slipped stitches.
Start by cutting the attached yarn to a length about 3 times the circumference of the item to be bound off. Place this yarn tail on a darning needle. Prepare by separating the knit stitches onto one needle and the purl stitches onto a second needle. It is helpful to move these onto a needle that is one size smaller than your working needles (this does not change the tension of your bind off, it just makes it easier to work the stitches with the darning needle).
First two stitches (preparation): Bring the yarn through the first stitch on the front needle as if to knit and slip the stitch off the needle. Bring the yarn through the next stitch on the front needle as if to purl and leave the stitch on the needle.
Step 1 – Back needle. Bring the yarn through the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl and slip the stitch off the needle. Bring the yarn through the next stitch on the back needle as if to knit and leave the stitch on the needle.
Step 2 – Front needle. Bring the yarn through the first stitch on the front needle as if to knit and slip the stitch off the needle. Bring the yarn through the next st on the front needle as if to purl and leave the stitch on the needle.
Repeat steps 1 and 2 until all stitches have been worked off.
This technique works well for items such as sock cuffs as it provides a stretchy cast on edge.
With waste yarn cast on half the required number of stitches. While working first round divide stitches evenly across needles
Using project yarn: Round 1: [k1, yarn over] repeat these two stitches around. Round 2: [yarn to back, slip 1 purl-wise, p1] repeat around. Round 3: [k1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise] repeat these two stitches around. Round 4: [yarn to back, slip 1 purl-wise, p1] repeat around.
Remove waste yarn